It has been a while since I posted, but I have been sewing a number of items. I have been working on UFOs (Unfinished Objects). UFOs exist because I have a great idea, start to execute it and then the next shiny idea comes along, so I start that too. Before long I have several UFOs. During the process of working on some of them I have learned a few things. Take better notes, save all the scraps until you finish the project and store everything together in a “project box”. For me, a project box is a plastic 12×12 inch box normally used to save scrapbooking paper. Or a plastic zippered pouch that I have saved from purchasing sheet sets. So let’s move on to a completed project.
This project really wasn’t a UFO for long. I have been thinking about changing the styles I wear. Even though I work full time from home, I was still hanging onto the old ‘professional style’ clothes and mindset. So this item starts getting me out of that box.
Cutting Line Designs is a pattern line by Louise Cutting. She is an icon in the sewing world and provides fabulous instructions in her patterns. She and her partner Sandra Miller (who writes the instructions) test everything and provide great drawings for what you need to do. Her techniques can be used on garments from any pattern company.
I have made a few of her patterns before but struggled with the fit in certain areas. I really wanted this one to work because it is a style I really like. And I wanted to wear it to Pattern Review weekend in June. I love vests and this one has unique style lines. It is called Just a Pinch and has both a shirt and vest view. The collars on each are different, but are interchangeable. Louise does all her own pattern envelope drawings and stories – she is extremely talented.
I made the vest with the double collar.
I was planning to use a linen for the vest and knew I needed to make a mock-up. Since I have a huge stash of fabric, which contains a number of fabrics that are not the right color for me, I selected a linen from my stash for the mock-up. I added a bust dart based on issues experienced in other dartless garments (the front hiked up meaning more length was needed for my bust). I followed Louise’s instructions for adding a bust dart to a dartless garment.
Those instructions are in her Industry Insider Techniques Vol 3 video. There are 8 videos with techniques. I have several of them. They are available for purchase on Louise’s website and on the Taunton website (Taunton owns Threads Magazine – Louise is a contributing editor to Threads).
I also did a round back adjustment and added a center back seam. I have a very short neck so I narrowed the collar slightly. The mock-up fit very well, so I moved forward to the good fabric.
Fabric was purchased from JoAnn Fabrics in 2012 (yes, I keep track of fabric, purchase location and date). This was a linen with slight stretch. The bit of lycra keeps the linen from wrinkling. The buttons were a lucky find in my resource center. They match perfectly and have a slight design on them that almost looks like the leaves on the fabric.
I am very happy with the fit and wearability of this vest. And I have worn it several times. I think part of the success of this fit is that the shoulder seam is at the shoulder. When there is a ‘dropped’ shoulder (meaning there is no seam at the shoulder and the sleeve is connected farther down the arm) I have not been as successful with the patterns. I plan to make at least one more for the upcoming fall/winter season. I styled this with a brown t-shirt and narrow ponte pants. It is a comfortable and stylish outfit. I even have a green necklace that goes well with the look.