Just “Another” Pinch

JAP Front

I completed another Just A Pinch vest. This one made from a lightweight cotton/linen blend fabric purchased at Hancock’s (Boo Hoo to the loss of Hancocks – we are all still in mourning).

No changes to this from the previous vest.  I had added a bust dart, along with center back seam for my round back adjustment.

JAP 1Indoor picture because it has been too hot and humid here to be posing outside.  I also made the t-shirt underneath.  I used V1363 again, and did an experiment.  I removed the bust and back shoulder darts.  Because the knit is so lightweight, I thought darts would be too noticeable.  I am happy with the result.



This fabric for this vest is a very neutral beige color and needed something to amp it up.  The t-shirt fabric is a rayon spandex I picked up at Joann on sale.  It is very soft and I like the print and soft colors.  The knit was easy to sew too – it doesn’t curl on the cut edges.
JAP stitchingClose-up of the top-stitching I did.  This is on the collar; I used a rayon embroidery thread and the built-in Sashiko stitch on my sewing machine.  It is very subtle, but since topstitching was needed, might as well let it stand out a little more than matching thread would.


Side view:

JAP side

Next post will be for another Cutting Line Designs pattern…stay tuned.


Just A Pinch

It has been a while since I posted, but I have been sewing a number of items.  I have been working on UFOs (Unfinished Objects).  UFOs exist because I have a great idea, start to execute it and then the next shiny idea comes along, so I start that too.  Before long I have several UFOs.  During the process of working on some of them I have learned a few things.  Take better notes, save all the scraps until you finish the project and store everything together in a “project box”.  For me, a project box is a plastic 12×12 inch box normally used to save scrapbooking paper.  Or a plastic zippered pouch that I have saved from purchasing sheet sets.  So let’s move on to a completed project.

This project really wasn’t a UFO for long.  I have been thinking about changing the styles I wear.  Even though I work full time from home, I was still hanging onto the old ‘professional style’ clothes and mindset.  So this item starts getting me out of that box.

Cutting Line Designs is a pattern line by Louise Cutting.  She is an icon in the sewing world and provides fabulous instructions in her patterns.  She and her partner Sandra Miller (who writes the instructions) test everything and provide great drawings for what you need to do.  Her techniques can be used on garments from any pattern company.

I have made a few of her patterns before but struggled with the fit in certain areas.  I really wanted this one to work because it is a style I really like.  And I wanted to wear it to Pattern Review weekend in June.  I love vests and this one has unique style lines.  It is called Just a Pinch and has both a shirt and vest view.  The collars on each are different, but are interchangeable.  Louise does all her own pattern envelope drawings and stories – she is extremely talented.

Just a Pinch pattern cover

I made the vest with the double collar.

I was planning to use a linen for the vest and knew I needed to make a mock-up.  Since I have a huge stash of fabric, which contains a number of fabrics that are not the right color for me, I selected a linen from my stash for the mock-up.  I added a bust dart based on issues experienced in other dartless garments (the front hiked up meaning more length was needed for my bust).  I followed Louise’s instructions for adding a bust dart to a dartless garment.

Those instructions are in her Industry Insider Techniques Vol 3 video.  There are 8 videos with techniques.  I have several of them.  They are available for purchase on Louise’s website and on the Taunton website (Taunton owns Threads Magazine – Louise is a contributing editor to Threads).

I also did a round back adjustment and added a center back seam.  I have a very short neck so I narrowed the collar slightly.  The mock-up fit very well, so I moved forward to the good fabric.

Fabric was purchased from JoAnn Fabrics in 2012 (yes, I keep track of fabric,  purchase location and date).  This was a linen with slight stretch.  The bit of lycra keeps the linen from wrinkling.  The buttons were a lucky find in my resource center.  They match perfectly and have a slight design on them that almost looks like the leaves on the fabric.

Just a Pinch Vest 1

I am very happy with the fit and wearability of this vest.  And I have worn it several times.  I think part of the success of this fit is that the shoulder seam is at the shoulder.  When there is a ‘dropped’ shoulder (meaning there is no seam at the shoulder and the sleeve is connected farther down the arm) I have not been as successful with the patterns.  I plan to make at least one more for the upcoming fall/winter season.  I styled this with a brown t-shirt and narrow ponte pants.  It is a comfortable and stylish outfit.  I even have a green necklace that goes well with the look.

Cruise wear for evening

We took a cruise in March, 2014 and I needed some new evening wear.  I was also trying to pack lightly, so decided to use a ‘navy with other colors’ theme for the cruise clothing.  For evening I made 1 skirt and 2 tops.  I had also previously made a cardigan that was added to the grouping.  Fabric used for the tops and skirt was a navy polyester crepe.  It was somewhat sheer so I lined the tops with a navy Bemberg lining.  I wore a black slip with the skirt.

Top:  Made from Burda Style 7/2013, #134.  Top has a bust dart on 1 side of the front and gathers where the bust dart would be on the other side of the front.  Traced the pattern in size 52.  Cap sleeve bottom was raised (don’t remember how much).  This top was a success – fits well, looks nice.

Skirt:  Made from Cutting Line Designs Relax a Little pattern.  Shortened the pattern by 4 inches.  Success – fits well.  next time I might shorten it by another 2 inches.

.   Burda top and RAL skirt

Cutting Line Designs RAL pattern:

RAL pattern (1024x768)

BurdaStyle book:

Burda top #134 (1024x768)

Cardigan – made from Pamela’s Patterns Twin Set patter.  Made from a poly stretch glitter lace.  I used the scalloped selvages as trim along the fronts, hem and sleeve hems.  No changes made to the cardigan.  Next time I need to shorten it by 2 inches.

Skirt and top with Cardigan

Next photo is of the back of the Burda top.  I used a rhinestone zipper in the back.

Burda top back (1024x768)

The second top was a mash-up of the Pattern Master Knits Inset Panel top and my shoulder princess seam sloper.  The embroidery pattern was from the Silhouettes patterns embroidery disk.  I used one of the embroidery patterns as is, and cropped part of that same pattern and combined it with the whole pattern during the stitching process.  I did a sample top, but did not wear it.  This top was not a success.  I underlined with the lining, but somehow it is twisted in the back.  The shoulders are too far apart and straps show.  The panel portion is too wide and gapes.  I will be taking this apart and seeing how I can salvage it.  At least salvage the embroidered portion.

Embroidered top and RAL skirt (1024x768)