Pants 2

I know I have been away for a long time.  Life really got in the way!  Actually work got in the way…so ready to retire!

Follow-up to the previous post on the Eureka Pants.  In a nutshell, still not happy.  I attended the June class I mentioned in the previous post and had another fitting.  I had lost about 10 lbs since the 2014 fitting, so there was a bit of change.  I made a ‘wearable muslin’, or at least I hoped it would be wearable.  It was not.  I used a stretch woven with very little recovery.  Consequently my pants grew as I wore them.  I put them on fresh washed, drove 40 minutes to my ASG Fashion meeting and when I got out of the car they looked like they were two sizes too big – excess fabric everywhere.  So the cause here was bad fabric.  Solution:  thrown in the trash.

I then cut a new pair out of a stretch woven brushed twill.  It had much less stretch than the previous fabric and was a bit heavier.  I took this pair to a sewing retreat, hoping I would finish them and have a wearable pair of pants.  I did make changes.  The original pattern has a back zipper.  There is a supplement to the pattern called Sporty Details, which has instruction and pattern pieces for a fly front zipper, outside pockets, etc.  The idea is make them more like jeans so the pattern has instructions on modifications to your trouser version to give these more of a jeans fit.

I traced the pattern that was fitted in June 2015 and adjusted for the sporty details.  This pair had too much fabric in the front below the zipper.  The front thighs also seemed to pull when walking.  This pattern is still not right for me and what I think is comfortable.  I don’t really know what changes to make at this time to turn this pattern into what I like.   Solution – thrown in the trash.

I had made the StyleArc Barb pants and was happy with those.  I used a relatively lightweight ponte knit.  I compared the Barb pattern with the Eureka pattern and they are very different.  If I get the urge to play with pants again, I will go back to the Barb pattern and use a stretch woven.  I don’t mind the elastic waist and if I get a good pair of pants, there are a number of changes I could make that don’t affect fit (adding pockets, narrowing the legs and adding a vent, etc).

Next post will talk about what I moved on to after these pants.

Pants

Perfect fitting pants seem to be the holy grail of sewing. Pants are difficult to fit due to various body shapes. I have been trying to perfect pants for a long time. To this end, at one of the Expos in October, 2014 I was fitted for the Fit For Art pants pattern called Eureka! Pants That Fit. Then I did nothing with the pattern. That is the problem – I am an unfocused sewist. I move on to the next shiny thing before I finish the one before. I am trying to do that less.

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Fast forward to June, 2015. Our local ASG chapter hosted Rae Cumbie, the creator of the Eureka! Pants That Fit pattern for a pants fitting workshop. I debated long and hard about spending the time and money on this workshop since I had already shelled out for 1 fitting and did nothing with it. So, I decided to make a ‘mock-up’ of the pattern with the changes that were given to me at the 2014 fitting. If I could get this done in time, I would attend the class so I could receive more fitting advice from the instructor. Working full time interferes with my free time!

You see, this is at least the 3rd time I have been fitted for a pants pattern by someone and had not been happy with the results of the other fttings. I am unique – RTW pants fit me just fine. I just don’t like the high price, nor the small selection of colors and fabrics available in my size. Besides – being able to sew pants that look good is just a personal challenge and goal.

I got the mock-up done, registered for the class and dragged machine and other assorted materials and tools to the class. And, boy am I glad I did! It took 3 tweaks of my mock-up to have the pants fit as well as possible. I came home, made the adjustments to the pattern and proceeded to use “good” fabric to create a real pair of pants.

I chose a cotton/lycra spandex blend. I must have some stretch in my pants for comfort. The instructions say that you should trace the pattern and remove about 5/8″ from the seams when using a stretch fabric. Since fabrics can vary so much, I decided to cut the pants from the pattern I had just adjusted. You can always remove fabric, so if they were too big, that would be an easy fix. They were too big. Plus I wanted to narrow the legs and shorten them to ankle pants.

I basted the new pair together, took them in where needed, traced the pattern I had adjusted, and then cut off the extra from the pattern. This now gives me a separate pattern to use with a stretch fabric.

The pants are almost complete; they just need the waistband. They have a back zipper and I prefer a front zipper or elastic waist. Those are easy changes now that the pattern fits! Pictures to come when the are complete.