Wow! It has been 10 months since I visited my blog. I have not been good at tracking what I make, learn, etc. So, I will just ahead to the present and go forward.
I attended a “Bodice Making Workshop” sponsored by one of the ASG chapters. I am alwddays trying to solve for my narrow upper chest and twisted sleeve issues. We used McCalls 6927 as the fitting garment. It offers cup sizes and according to their instructions, a D cup was my size. But it was too big. I did use the right size for my upper bust measurement. With some tweaking (raise the shoulder seams, add fabric to the back center seam to compensate for the pattern being too small everywhere else), I got a pretty good fit. Just didn’t know what to do about the too large bust cup.
The workshop ended so I drove home. I played around more with it that night and also the next day. I was able to accomplish the goal. In the end, I used a previous sloper that had the right bust cup size, but only a waist dart. I moved the dart to the side, tweaked the shoulder and armhole a bit. Two more muslins and SUCCESS! I recopied the pattern to a new piece of paper. I could make a sleeveless shell, or a sleeveless button front blouse/shirt and know that it would fit the way it should. The pattern piece looks odd, I know, but I guess that is the way I am shaped.
My next step with this is to draft a sleeve using information from a Craftsy class. It is called Patternmaking and Design – Creative Sleeves with Suzy Furrer. My hope is that it ‘works’, unlike the sleeve from my sloper class taken a couple of years ago. That sleeve was very wrong.